Old town, futuristic architecture, a city beach and paella where it was invented: three days that feel like a week Valencia has quietly become one of the best city breaks in Europe, and February is a good moment to find out why. Spain's third city is compact enough to walk, warm enough to eat outside most days (highs around 17 to 18°C), and still cheaper and calmer than Barcelona or Madrid. Direct flights from across the UK and Ireland take around two and a half hours, and the metro runs from the airport to the city centre in roughly 25 minutes. This itinerary is built for a long weekend, Friday to Monday or Saturday to Tuesday, with a full day in the historic centre, a day between the City of Arts and Sciences and the beach, and a third day to get out of town. Swap the order around depending on the weather and your flights.

Day 1: the old town on foot

Start at the Mercado Central, one of the largest and most beautiful covered markets in Europe, and have breakfast among the stalls. Across the road is La Lonja, the 15th-century silk exchange and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, whose twisted columns are worth the small entrance fee. From there, wander towards the Plaza de la Virgen, the cathedral (climb the Miguelete tower for the best view in the city) and the narrow streets of El Carmen, the neighbourhood of bars, street art and small galleries. In the afternoon, walk out through the Torres de Serranos, the medieval city gate, into the Turia Gardens, the old riverbed that is now a nine-kilometre park running through the city. For dinner, head to Ruzafa, the district just south of the centre where most of Valencia's more interesting restaurants and bars are.

Day 2: City of Arts and Sciences and the beach

Follow the Turia Gardens east, on foot or on a hired bike, to the City of Arts and Sciences, the white futuristic complex that is Valencia's modern symbol. Two visits work well in a morning: the Oceanogràfic, Europe's largest aquarium, and the Science Museum; the Hemisfèric cinema and the opera house are worth seeing from outside even if you do not go in. In the afternoon, take the tram or a bus to the beach. Malvarrosa and Las Arenas are long, wide and backed by a promenade of restaurants where you can have a late paella lunch or an early dinner in the sun. Behind the beach is El Cabanyal, the old fishermen's quarter with tiled façades and a lively food scene, one of the best places in the city for an evening drink.

Day 3: Albufera, or a day trip

Ten kilometres south of the city, the Albufera Natural Park is a freshwater lagoon surrounded by rice fields, and the birthplace of paella. The classic plan is lunch in El Palmar, the village in the middle of the rice paddies, followed by a boat trip on the lagoon at sunset. A bus from the city centre gets you there in about 40 minutes. If you would rather see a different town, Xàtiva, with its huge castle on a ridge, is under an hour away by train, and Sagunto, with a Roman theatre and a hilltop fortress, is even closer. Wine lovers can head inland to Utiel-Requena for a winery visit and the underground cellars beneath the old town of Requena.

Practical tips

Valencia is a walking city, but the bike lanes are excellent and a hired bike is the fastest way to move between the centre, the City of Arts and Sciences and the beach. Lunch is late (2 pm onwards) and dinner later still (9 pm is normal). Paella is a lunch dish here, not a dinner one, and the original is made with chicken, rabbit and beans, not seafood. Two things to check in the calendar: on the last Sunday of February the city holds the Crida, the official opening of Las Fallas, and from 1 March there is a daily mascletà, a deafening daytime firework display, in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. Late February already has a taste of the festival; the first half of the month is quieter.

Where to stay

For a city break, a holiday rental lets you choose the neighbourhood that suits you: El Carmen or the centre for the old town on your doorstep, Ruzafa for restaurants and nightlife, the Cabanyal or Malvarrosa for the beach. In the Region of Valencia, legal holiday rentals carry an official registration number (format VT-XXXXX-V, -A or -CS) that must appear in the listing. Checking it takes a minute and means you are booking with an identifiable operator. ApturCV, the leading holiday-rental association in the Region of Valencia, explains how in its traveller guide.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Valencia?

Three full days cover the old town, the City of Arts and Sciences, the beach and one trip out of the city without rushing. Two days is enough for the highlights; four gives you time for a second day trip or simply a slower pace.

Is Valencia good for a city break in winter?

Yes. Daytime temperatures in January and February are typically 16 to 18°C with plenty of sun, the main sights are open all year and prices are lower than in summer.

Valencia or Barcelona for a weekend?

Barcelona has more world-famous sights; Valencia is smaller, cheaper, less crowded and has a better city beach. For a relaxed long weekend with good food, Valencia is hard to beat. Travel with confidence: choose a legal holiday rental with a registration number. We explain how to spot one in our guide to legal holiday rentals.